• Animals,  Bees,  Birding,  Building and Landscaping,  Chickens,  Cob,  Compost,  Composting toilet,  Fungus and Mushrooms,  Gardening adventures,  Giving,  Health,  Heirloom Plants,  Hiking,  Houses,  Hugelkultur,  Humor,  Living structures,  Natives,  Natural cleaners,  Other Insects,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Pets,  Photos,  Predators,  Quail,  Rain Catching,  Recycling and Repurposing,  Reptiles and Amphibians,  Seeds,  Soil,  Vegetables,  Water Saving,  Worms

    Special Tours for Aug. and Sept., 2014

    Come take a tour of a food forest!
    Come take a tour of a food forest!

    Normally tours of Finch Frolic Garden are held by appointment for groups of 5 – 15 people, Thursdays – Mondays.  Cost is $10 per person and the tour lasts about two hours.  By popular demand, for those who don’t have a group of five or more, we will be hosting Open Tour days for the first 15 people to sign up in August and September.   They will be Sunday, August 10 and 24, Sept. 7 and 21, and Thursdays August 7 and 28, and Sept. 11 and 25.  Tours begin promptly at 10 am.  The tours last about two hours and are classes on basic permaculture while we tour the food forest.  I ask $10 per person. Please reserve and receive directions through dianeckennedy@prodigy.net.  Children under 10 are free; please, no pets.  Photos but no video are allowed. Thank you for coming to visit!  Diane and Miranda

  • Animals,  Chickens,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Pets

    Striving for Healthier Hens

    Nora and Branwyn enjoying the sun on our windowseat.
    Nora and Branwyn enjoying the sun on our windowseat.

    The last six months have been very difficult chicken-wise.  We lost Chickpea to a coyote, who snatched her a few yards from us, we lost Miss Amelia and Madge from unknown ailments, and we’ve nursed chickens back to health as well. Mulan had a prolapsed uterus, which we cleaned, stuffed back in coated with honey from our own bees and bandaged.  She recovered and is laying happily, thank goodness.  Viola and a couple of others had impacted crop, which means that they swallowed something like long pieces of grass which have blocked up the exit from their crop to their stomach.  There have been many mornings I’ve spent making a chicken throw up, without breaking her neck or suffocating her.  We’ve been frazzled with the health of our hens, all purchased through feed stores.  Our past chicken experiences had no egg binding, no septic peritonitis, no crossbill (which should have been bred out of the hens) and no infected eyes.

    I’ve purchased mostly organic feed for them, and given them greens in their large Fowl Fortress or brought them into the fenced yard for grazing.  Organic feed is amazingly expensive.  Since we don’t eat the hens and we use their eggs as one of our main protein sources, they need to be in good productive health.  Chickens can live ten years or more, and lay that long, too.  Ours seem to top off at three.

    I tried fermenting their food.  Fermented food is all the rage and I read many articles about the health benefits of fermenting chicken food.  In a 5-gallon bucket I’d mix water and their lay crumbles along with some cracked corn and wait a couple of days until it smelled yeasty.  Then I’d give them some and replenish the bucket.  It took awhile for the hens to come to like the food, but it didn’t seem to do anything for their health.  In our warm San Diego weather it was tricky to not have the fermented food spoil.  Eventually I gave that up.

    One of the hen’s purposes  in the garden  is to create compost.  They excel at pooing.  When the opportunity arose to be able to pick up discarded fruit and vegetables from the Fallbrook Food Pantry four times a week, I jumped at it.  Much of the produce is still edible for the hens; when mixed with pooey straw and dirt the chickens could grub out, well, grubs and fly larvae and eat more naturally.  Although we’re still picking it up, we are devoting hours a week lugging stinky veggies around.  It is hard and heavy work, and the fly population has exploded.  However we have seen more flycatchers hanging around the yard recently and the phoebe is truly fat.  I shovel and rake the produce mixed with carbon sources (paper goods from the house mostly) and then the hens kick it all over.  It is good exercise for them, they eat far less lay crumble, and they are producing some very good quality compost for the veggie garden.  Their health has been better.

    One of the reasons that the hens came down with just about every known illness was because they were purchased from hatcheries.  Hatchery birds live in hell from the second they are born.  Since few people want roosters, the male chicks are swept into trash bags and thrown away, live.  The female  chicks are inoculated  and packaged up for shipment through the mail.  There are always extra chicks packed in because the heat of the ones on the outside keep the ones on the inside warm enough to possibly survive the stressful, hungry, thirsty and brutal trip.  Therefore the ones on the outside of the bundle are sacrificial.  I didn’t want to support this animal cruelty any longer.

    I decided to find a local breeder who cared for her hens.  I found someone who seemed reputable; her  mother owns a feed store and the woman breeds horses, dogs and hens.  On conversation with her I learned that she had imported chickens from good stock and bred them at her place.  The hens weren’t inoculated, but that wouldn’t matter to us since we have a small isolated flock.  With glee I ordered four pullets, from several weeks old to a couple of months.  They were different breeds and were to lay different egg colors.  We sectioned out the back of the Fowl Fortress and happily put the girls in.  Not long after we found out they were crawling with lice.  None of our other girls had lice, thank goodness.  Upon contacting the woman she said that she’d put Frontline on the hens per advice from her vet.  We smeared Vaseline around the eggs that encrusted their necks and powdered  diatomaceous earth on their bodies.  We’ve repeated the treatment, but we haven’t won the war yet.  I noticed when we picked the girls up that the blue maran, Nora, had a watery eye.  That eye became infected, and we learned that it was probably a small eyeball, and now she’s blind in that eye.  Just a few days ago her other eye was bothering her so we are treating it.  She is underweight, and Miranda noticed that her beak was overgrown so it was hard for her to peck food.  Miranda trimmed it, having had lots of experience with our poor late crossbill, Belle.  So Nora lives for the time being in the house as we hope that she doesn’t go completely blind, and as we try to feed her up so that if the time comes when we can reintroduce her, the flock won’t attack her.

    Branwyn balancing herself on her weak forelegs.
    Branwyn balancing herself on her weak forelegs.

    Then there is Branwyn.  She’s a feisty olive-egger.  A few weeks ago Miranda noticed that Branwyn’s legs were bowing out as she walked.  By the time she brought the bird up to the house she was paralyzed in both legs.  Our immediate fear was Merek’s disease, which is highly communicable and would have meant death for all our birds, sterilization of the coop and no hens for six months or more.  Within days Branwyn showed signs of moving her left leg.  Miranda configured a Rubbermaid container as a bouncy chair, tying a t-shirt across it and cutting leg holes through it so Branwyn could rest with legs down and feet touching the bottom.  Later, Miranda cut the legs from an old pair of tights and stuck Branwyn through to bounce her across the floor,  giving her physical therapy.  Sounds nutso, I know, but its working.  Branwyn’s left leg is much stronger and she’s beginning to force her right leg to work.  She can’t stand, but she can now get her feet under her.  We still don’t know what was wrong with her; some kind of neurological disorder or possibly vitamin deficiency.  We were giving her Vitamin E and B complex with selenium heavily for a week and saw her initial improvement.  Vitamin deficiency can be inherited; common chicken feed should have enough in it, especially when combined with vitamins in their water.

    Miranda walking Branwyn in her sling made of old tights (to the tune of Surrey With The Fringe On Top).
    Miranda walking Branwyn in her sling made of old tights (to the tune of Surrey With The Fringe On Top).

    Lark, who was huge with sterile peritonitis, was drained by the vet and is several pounds lighter and much happier.  She’s with the rest of the flock.  Since we have no idea what caused the condition (she’s barren), it might happen again but for now she’s back kicking fruit around with the rest.

    I still don’t want to participate in the hatchery butchery and torture.  Anything mass-produced, be it animals, food, plants or products, are rooted in cruelty: sweat shops in other countries, underpaid workers, poor root stock, diseased, malnourished and maltreated animals, unhealthy chemical-laden food.  I’m holding off on purchasing any new hens, even though I wanted a  lavender Americauna.  I still think that buying local, while more expensive, is better.  For whatever reasons this batch have all been ill.  In fact, the only hens we’re treating right now are all four of the new girls!

    Chickens have wonderful personalities and make great pets, and they are pets; having a few hens for eggs and meat sounds easy but just like any living thing they require work.  Especially OUR hens, who must know we won’t cull them and have decided that we are an early retirement home with personal nursing care.  I wish I could look forward to such a deal!

  • Animals,  Bees,  Birding,  Books,  Building and Landscaping,  Chickens,  Cob,  Compost,  Composting toilet,  Fungus and Mushrooms,  Gardening adventures,  Heirloom Plants,  Hugelkultur,  Humor,  Living structures,  Natives,  Natural cleaners,  Other Insects,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Ponds,  Predators,  Quail,  Rain Catching,  Recycling and Repurposing,  Reptiles and Amphibians,  Seeds,  Soil,  Water Saving,  Worms

    Permaculture Lectures At Finch Frolic Garden, June 2014

    Tour Finch Frolic Garden!
    Tour Finch Frolic Garden!

    Permaculture Lectures in the Garden!

    Learn how to work with nature and save money too

    Finch Frolic Garden and Hatch Aquatics will present four fantastic, information-filled lectures in June.  Join us at beautiful Finch Frolic Garden in Fallbrook, 4 pm to 6 pm, for refreshments and talks on…

    Saturday, June 7: Introduction to Permaculture and Finch Frolic Tour: We’ll take you through the main precepts of permaculture and how it can be applied not only to your garden, but to yourself and your community.  Then we’ll tour Finch Frolic Garden and show rain catchments, swales, plant guilds, polyculture, living buildings and so much more.

    Saturday, June 14: Your Workers in the Soil and Earthworks: Learn the best methods for storing water in the soil and how to replace all your chemicals with actively aerated compost tea and compost.

    Saturday, June 21: Aquaculture: You can have a natural pond – even in a tub!  How natural ponds work, which plants clean water and which are good to eat.  Even if you don’t want a pond, you’ll learn exciting information about bioremediation and riparian habitat.

    Saturday, June 28: Wildlife in your Garden: What are all those bugs and critters and what they are doing in your yard?  We’ll discuss how to live with wildlife and the best ways to attract beneficial species.

    Your hosts and lecturers will be

    Jacob Hatch  Owner of Hatch Aquatics. With years of installing and maintaining natural ponds and waterways, and a Permaculture Design Course graduate, Jacob has installed earthworks with some of the biggest names in permaculture.

    Miranda Kennedy  OSU graduate of Wildlife Conservation and wildlife consultant, Miranda photographs and identifies flora and fauna and maps their roles in backyard ecosystems.

    Diane Kennedy  Owner of Finch Frolic Garden, lecturer, consultant, Permaculture Design Course graduate, former SDC Senior Park Ranger, Diane educates homeowners on how to save money and the environment while building their dream gardens.

    Each class limit is 50 attendees, so please make pre-paid reservations soon before they fill up.  Fee for set of four lectures and tour is $45 per person.  Single session fee is $20 per person. Contact Diane Kennedy at dianeckennedy@prodigy.net for reservations and directions.

     

          You will not want to miss this fascinating and useful information!

  • Building and Landscaping,  Compost,  Fungus and Mushrooms,  Gardening adventures,  Heirloom Plants,  Hugelkultur,  Natives,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Rain Catching,  Seeds,  Soil,  Water Saving

    The Albedo Effect: How Bare Earth Causes Wild Weather

    This week's 100F+ temperatures and high Santa Ana winds have fueled three fires close to us.  It is May, not October.
    This week’s 100F+ temperatures and high Santa Ana winds have fueled three fires close to us. It is May, not October.

    Albedo is a reflection coefficient.  In layman’s terms it is the effect that happens when sunlight is reflected off of white areas.  There is the high albedo of bare earth, snow and ice, and clouds, and the low albedo of water and vegetation.  There is less reflection from dark areas such as off of water and green areas, and darker areas, just like dark clothing, absorbs more heat rather than reflects it like white clothing does.  There are arguments that we should cut down all the trees to increase white space to stop global warming.  NO!  The plant life that occupies the green spaces transpire water and excess heat into the air, causing cloud cover. Clouds, of course, insulate the earth from the sun and their albedo effect is cooling to the earth, not to mention that clouds amass moisture and – bingo – you get rain.  It is the loss of green areas and the desertification of large masses of Africa, and the in-progress desertification of the already drier areas of the world (such as California) that makes the albedo effect one that is helping warm our climate.  Great tracks of land now reflect light into cloudless skies; water sources dry up and plants die so transpiration disappears.  The loss of air-borne water (evapotranspiration)  allows areas around the desert area to also dry out.  The rapid change of climate due to desertification, loss of topsoil and the resulting erosion and the melting of our ice caps (creating larger oceans and thus larger thermal masses to reflect heat) causes severe weather patterns – weather patterns that balance out huge dry desert areas with destructive rain and wind storms in other areas.  Drying areas ignite… here in San Diego North County there are five fires burning as I sit, and heavy smoke and ash rain down on everything between them.  My house is not threatened at this time, but we may be evacuated.  So many people are evacuated right now and the highways are packed.  There is another fire near San Diego, and two between here and Los Angeles.  It is May – usually we have these temperatures, wild winds from the desert called Santa Ana winds, and fire threat in October.  Our lack of rain doesn’t bode well for California.

    My point is that to help balance nature out again, we need to hurriedly lessen the amount of reflected light in areas where we were traditionally covered by plants.  We need to plant.  We need to plant native plants.  We need to re-green our landscapes, in each backyard and vacant lot, as quickly as we can.  Allow the plants to keep moisture in the soil, to slow flooding, to transpire moisture into our atmosphere so that rain comes back to the desert areas.  We need to hold what rain that falls in our soil by burying wood (hugelkultur), by creating level swales and mulching, mulching, mulching.  Yet on trash day I see bags and bags of leaves set on the street ready to go to the dump. We need to stop erosion areas by using whatever means we can to keep the topsoil back.  We need native trees with long roots that will hold the soil, build topsoil and transpirate.

    Of course you probably can’t afford lots of plants, so plant natives that will quickly grow large.  Between the slower-growing oaks, plant sages, mallows, ceanothus, quail bush and other bushes that cover 10 -15 feet of dry earth.  Under them will be moisture, protected soil with mulch from their leaves, and habitat for lizards, frogs, small birds and hundreds of insects.  These bushes will help shade young oaks, sycamores, and other trees and keep their trunks from scorching.

    Throw down seeds of California fescue (Festuca californica var. parishii) to hold soil and cover the dry, reflective areas.  This native grass is tough and doesn’t cause trouble like non-native grasses.  You can seed it with California poppies, lupine and other native flowers.   Aggressively weed out non-native species.

    Since I was little, in the 60’s, I heard the mantra ‘plant a tree’.  Obviously we haven’t been doing that.  I think it should be changed to ‘plant a tree and don’t cut down any more because the earth can’t afford it’!

    Please plant!  And all my hope goes to you and yours who are threatened or have had losses from our severe weather.

  • Animals,  Bees,  Birding,  Chickens,  Cob,  Compost,  Composting toilet,  Fungus and Mushrooms,  Gardening adventures,  Health,  Heirloom Plants,  Hiking,  Humor,  Living structures,  Natives,  Natural cleaners,  Other Insects,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Pets,  Photos,  Ponds,  Predators,  Quail,  Rain Catching,  Reptiles and Amphibians,  Seeds,  Soil,  Water Saving,  Worms

    Finch Frolic Facebook!

    Thanks to my daughter Miranda, our permaculture food forest habitat Finch Frolic Garden has a Facebook page.  Miranda steadily feeds information onto the site, mostly about the creatures she’s discovering that have recently been attracted to our property.  Lizards, chickens, web spinners and much more.  If you are a Facebook aficionado, consider giving us a visit and ‘liking’ our page.  Thanks!

  • Animals,  Bees,  Birding,  Compost,  Fruit,  Fungus and Mushrooms,  Gardening adventures,  Herbs,  Hugelkultur,  Natives,  Other Insects,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Ponds,  Predators,  Rain Catching,  Reptiles and Amphibians,  Seeds,  Soil,  Vegetables,  Water Saving,  Worms

    The Mulberry Guild

    The renovated and planted mulberry guild.
    The renovated and planted mulberry guild.

    One of our larger guilds has a Pakistani mulberry tree that I’d planted last spring, and around it had grown tomatoes, melons, eggplant, herbs, Swiss chard, artichokes and garlic chives.

    Mulberry guild with last year's plant matter and unreachable beds.
    Mulberry guild with last year’s plant matter and unreachable beds.

    This guild was too large; any vegetable bed should be able to be reached from a pathway without having to step into the bed.  Stepping on your garden soil crushes fungus and microbes, and compacts (deoxygenates) the soil.  So of course when I told my daughter last week  that we had to plant that guild that day, what I ended up meaning was, we were going to do a lot of digging in the heat and maybe plant the next day. Most of my projects are like this.

    Lavender, valerian, lemon balm, horehound, comfrey and clumping garlic chives were still thriving in the bed.  Marsh fleabane, a native, had seeded itself all around the bed and had not only protected veggies from last summer’s extreme heat, but provided trellises for the current tomatoes.

    Fleabane stalks from last year, with new growth coming from the roots.
    Fleabane stalks from last year, with new growth coming from the roots.

    Marsh fleabane is an incredible lure for hundreds of our tiny native pollinators and other beneficial insects.  Lots of lacewing eggs were on it, too.  The plants were coming up from the base, so we cut and dropped these dead plants  to mulch the guild.

    The stalks of fleabane are hollow... perfect homes for small bees!
    The stalks of fleabane are hollow… perfect homes for small bees!

    The stems were hollow and just the right size to house beneficial bees such as mason bees.   This plant is certainly a boon for our first line of defense, our native insects.

    We also chopped and dropped the tomato vines.  Tomatoes like growing in the same place every year.  With excellent soil biology – something we are still working on achieving with compost and compost teas – you don’t have to rotate any crops.

    Slashed and dropped tomato and fleabane.
    Slashed and dropped tomato and fleabane.

    We had also discovered in the last flood that extra water through this heavy clay area would flow down the pathway to the pond, often channeled there via gopher tunnels.

    The pathway is a water channel during heavy rains.  It needs fixing.
    The pathway is a water channel during heavy rains. It needs fixing.

    We decided to harvest that water and add water harvesting pathways to the garden at the same time.  We dug a swale across the pathway, perpendicular to  the flow of water, and continued the swale into the garden to a small hugel bed.

    Swale dug on contour through the pathway and across the guild.
    Swale dug on contour through the pathway and across the guild.

    Hugelkultur means soil on wood, and is an excellent way to store water in the ground, add nutrients, be rid of extra woody material and sequester carbon in the soil.  We wanted the bottom of the swale to be level so  that water caught on the pathway would slowly travel into the bed and passively be absorbed into the surrounding soil.  We used our wonderful bunyip (water level).

    Using a bunyip to make the bottom of the swale level.  Water running into the path will now be channeled through the guild.
    Using a bunyip to make the bottom of the swale level. Water running into the path will now be channeled through the guild.

    Because of the heavy clay involved we decided to fill the swale with woody material, making it a long hugel bed.  Water will enter the swale in the pathway, and will still channel water but will also percolate down to prevent overflow.  We needed to capture a lot of water, but didn’t want a deep swale across our pathway.  By making it a hugel bed with a slight concave surface it will capture water and percolate down quickly, running along the even bottom of the swale into the garden bed, without there being a trippable hole for visitors to have to navigate.  So we filled the swale with stuff.  Large wood is best for hugels because they hold more water and take more time to decompose, but we have little of that here. We had some very old firewood that had been sitting on soil.  The life underneath wood is wonderful; isn’t this proof of how compost works?

    The activity under an old log shows so many visible decomposers, and there are thousands that we don't see.
    The activity under an old log shows so many visible decomposers, and there are thousands that we don’t see.

    We laid the wood into the trench.

    Placing old logs in the swale.
    Placing old logs in the swale.

    If you don’t have old logs, what do you use?  Everything else!

    This giant palm has been a home to raccoons and orioles, and a perch for countless other birds.  The last big wind storm distributed the fronds everywhere.
    This giant palm has been a home to raccoons and orioles, and a perch for countless other birds. The last big wind storm distributed the fronds everywhere.

    We are wealthy in palm fronds.

    Three quick cuts (to fit the bed) made these thorny fronds perfect hugelbed components
    Three quick cuts (to fit the bed) made these thorny fronds perfect hugelbed components.

    We layered all sorts of cuttings with the clay soil, and watered it in, making sure the water flowed across the level swale.

    We filled the swale with fronds, rose and sage trimmings, some old firewood and sticks, and
    We filled the swale with fronds, rose and sage trimmings, some old firewood and sticks, and clay.

    As we worked, we felt as if we were being watched.

    Can you spot the duck in this photo?
    Can you spot the duck in this photo?

    Mr. and Mrs. Mallard were out for a graze, boldly checking out our progress.  He is guarding her as she hikes around the property, leading him on a merry chase every afternoon.  You can see Mr. Mallard to the left of the little bridge.

    This male mallard and his mate, who is 'ducked' down in front of him, enjoyed grazing on weeds and watching we silly humans work so hard.
    This male mallard and his mate, who is ‘ducked’ down in front of him, enjoyed grazing on weeds and watching we silly humans work so hard.

    After filling the swale, we covered the new trail that now transects the guild with cardboard to repress weeds.

    Cardboard laid over the hugelswale.
    Cardboard laid over the hugelswale.

     

    Then we covered that with wood chips and delineated the pathway with sticks; visitors never seem to see the pathways and are always stepping into the guilds.  Grrr!

    The cardboard was covered with wood chips and the pathway delineated with sticks.
    The cardboard was covered with wood chips and the pathway delineated with sticks.  Where the trail curves to the left is a small raised hugelbed to help hold back water.

    At this point the day – and we – were done, but a couple of days later we planted.  Polyculture is the best answer to pest problems and more nutritional food.  We chose different mixes of seeds for each of the quadrants, based on situation, neighbor plants, companion planting and shade.  We kept in mind the ‘recipe’ for plant guilds, choosing a nitrogen-fixer, a deep tap-rooted plant, a shade plant, an insect attractor, and a trellis plant.  So, for one quarter we mixed together seeds of carrot, radish, corn, a bush squash, leaf parsley and a wildflower.  Another had eggplant, a short-vined melon (we’ll be building trellises for most of our larger vining plants), basil, Swiss chard, garlic, poppies, and fava beans.  In the raised hugelbed I planted peas, carrots, and flower seeds.

    In the back quadrant next to the mulberry I wanted to trellis tomatoes.

    This quadrant by the mulberry needed a trellis for tomatoes.
    This quadrant by the mulberry needed a trellis for tomatoes.

    I’d coppiced some young volunteer oaks, using the trunks for mushroom inoculation, and kept the tops because they branched out and I thought maybe they’d come in handy.  Sure enough, we decided to try one for a tomato trellis.  Tomatoes love to vine up other plants.  Some of ours made it about ten feet in the air, which made them hard to pick but gave us a lesson in vines and were amusing to regard.  So we dug a hole and stuck in one of these cuttings, then hammered in stakes on either side and tied the whole thing up.

    Tying the trunk to two stakes with twine taken from straw bales.  Love the blue color!
    Tying the trunk to two stakes with twine taken from straw bales. Love the blue color!

    The result looks like a dead tree.  However, the leaves will drop, providing good mulch, the tiny current tomatoes which we seeded around the trunk will enjoy the support of all the small twigs and branches, and will cascade down from the arched side.

    The 'dead tree' look won't last long as the tomatoes climb over it and dangle close to the path for easy harvesting.
    The ‘dead tree’ look won’t last long as the tomatoes climb over it and dangle close to the path for easy harvesting.

    We seeded the area with another kind of carrots (carrots love tomatoes!) and basil, and planted Tall Telephone beans around the mulberry trunk to use and protect it with vines.  We watered it all in with well water, and can’t wait to see what pops up!  We have so many new varieties from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds and other sources that we’re planting this year!  Today we move onto the next bed.

  • Gardening adventures,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Ponds,  Rain Catching,  Soil,  Water Saving

    You Can Only Catch So Much Rain!

     

    3-6-14 052After a seriously dry and warm winter, last weekend we received most of our rain allotment over four days. Here in Fallbrook we received four inches.  A long soaking rain would have been preferable, but I’m happy for what we received. Normally we receive downpours like cranky temper tantrums of the clouds that thunder down for a minute and then whimper away, but not this time.

    The pathway between the Mexican bush sage and quail bush became a river.  Now we know where to put new swales.
    The pathway between the Mexican bush sage and quail bush became a river. Now we know where to put new swales.
    3-6-14 038
    Water from the driveway was channeled down to the new veggie bed trenches, and filled them up.

    This storm had rain events where it would pour down buckets, and then become heavier and last for much longer than usual.  The last storm of this type was back in December, 2010, which is when I lost chunks of property down into the streambed due to erosion across the property.  Thanks to permaculture methods, the property received very little damage and no serious erosion.

    New temporary streams everywhere.
    New temporary streams everywhere.  This was a directed overflow from the ponds.

    If we had just received what had fallen on our property then we would have captured all of it.  The downpours were so hard and long that we had tens of thousands of gallons of water flowing through from the street.  My daughter and I left just after one of the last ginormous downpours and drove past a brown river running down the street and onto our property.  It not only collected and flowed from other properties, but rain water was flowing from the cross street, Alvarado, down our street, through the neighbor’s property and through ours.  It is amazing that we suffered as little damage as we did.

    The large rain catchment basin worked beautifully, percolating well and slowing the flood.
    The large rain catchment basin worked beautifully, percolating well and slowing the flood.

    The rain catchment basins worked beautifully; the top one filled and percolated down many times, recharging the water table.  Overflow systems worked well to channel water down an overflow pipe and into the streambed below. Water from the driveway was diverted to the long, level trenches we’d dug under our new ‘sunken’ veggie beds, and it worked well.  It was good to see the overflows working, because there was no way in the world to capture the amount of  water that flowed through this property.  Oh, if only I could have!  Let’s see: one inch of water falling in one hour on one acre is almost 27,000 gallons of water.  I have 1.68 acres and we received four inches.  That means that about 181, 440 gallons of water fell directly on my property alone.  I couldn’t begin to calculate how much water flowed onto the property from the street and neighbor’s properties during the heavy rainfall times.  Sigh. I’ll have to keep working on catching more!  I’m water greedy!

    The big pond backed up to the cement slab where the cob oven sits!
    The big pond backed up to the cement slab where the cob oven sits!

    It wasn’t until the last day that water backed up and overflowed the cement channel, effectively removing mulch we’d just laid over plywood and cardboard on the pathways.  One area, notorious for its squidgy clay when wet, emulated quicksand under the layer of mulch (the boot photo at the top).

    Plywood that had days before been topped with mulch.  Repair work was time-consuming but not difficult, only we need more mulch!
    Plywood that had days before been topped with mulch. Repair work was time-consuming but not difficult, only we need more mulch!

    One of the great benefits of the overflow, however, is that it deposited sand and decomposed granite over the heavy clay in the beds.  The storm helped amend the soil in these troublesome areas!

    You can see the difference between the sandy silt that once belonged to our neighbors, deposited on the shiny thick clay of our garden bed.  Thanks!
    You can see the difference between the sandy silt that once belonged to our neighbors, deposited on the shiny thick clay of our garden bed. Thanks!

    In fact, outside of our gate where the street water flows to enter the property a lot of silt accumulated.  We were out there with wheelbarrows today clearing it out and using it.  It is a great mixture of sand, decomposed granite and organic materials!  Beautiful stuff.  We hauled it down the hill and used it to plant potatoes in milk crates, mixed with a little pigeon poo from our generous neighbors.  I had been wondering where I’d be able to get the soil for those crates.  We still have a lot left (more to collect, too, but it is heavy business) for other projects.

    Just before the rains we'd covered this area in newspaper topped by mulch.  You can see the river of water behind the tree and the shifted mulch in front.  Strawberry plants under the olive were covered with debris.
    Just before the rains we’d covered this area in newspaper topped by mulch. You can see the river of water behind the tree and the shifted mulch in front. Strawberry plants under the olive were covered with debris.

    So on top of trying to catch up with the early spring here (did we even have winter??), we’ve been repairing the trails and making the walkways safe for the tours which have begun.  It is a good lesson about where to place more swales and rain catchment basins for the next strange rain event.  Since its March already, I don’t really have to worry about possible flooding for another twelve months or more!

    By the end of the four days everything overflowed, but not violently.  Here we have a temporary pond by the Mock Pavilion.
    By the end of the four days everything overflowed, but not violently. Here we have a temporary pond by the Mock Pavilion.
  • Compost,  Fungus and Mushrooms,  Gardening adventures,  Hugelkultur,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Soil

    More Spores: Planting Garden Giant and Shaggy Mane Mushrooms

    Breaking apart the large square of inoculated sawdust.
    Breaking apart the large square of inoculated sawdust.

    The last scintillating post was about how we distributed oyster mushroom spawn in the straw in our new vegetable garden.  Today we planted more shrooms… but not the last!  “Where will it end?” you cry.  I’m not sure myself; I guess it depends on how well we can grow mushrooms here in the drought-stricken west.  It is the last week in February and we’ve had 70 degree – 90 degree daytime temperatures all month long, and less than a 1/2 inch of rain this year.  This is our rainy season.  Some mushrooms do grow here, although they aren’t very apparent this dry year.  We certainly don’t have the high humidity, frequent rain and acidic loam that characterizes areas such as Northern California and the Pacific northwest where mushrooms are everywhere.

    Shaggy Mane spores growing all over the bag.
    Shaggy Mane spores growing all over the bag.

    I bought two bags of spores, of Giant Mushroom and Shaggy Mane mushrooms, both of which are edible and can stand warmer climates, as long as they are shaded and receive water.  My daughter and I strolled all over the property considering different spots.  There aren’t a lot of areas which are shaded all day, which receive water or are close to water, and where shrooms would be safe from nibbling animals.  We decided upon the small group of old lime trees (and one orange) that are between the fenced backyard and the Fowl Fortress.

    Limes look so very pretty, until they draw blood!
    Limes look so very pretty, until they draw blood!

    I’m not a fan of lime trees.  When I was 11, my parents moved me and my sister to a four-acre lime grove in Vista, CA.  I grew up enjoying the smell of lime blossoms, walking through tens of thousands of bees (pre-Africanization), climbing up the few avocado trees and pretending I was a spy and bad guys were looking for me.  But when I was older I was paid to care for the lime trees.  I became disenchanted.  They are nasty.  Their thorns and small dead twigs scratch and catch, they are often full of ants which are harvesting aphids on the leaves, and they are short trees, so to pick limes or do anything for them you have to duck under the canopy and usually end up losing some hair and bleeding from the thorns.

    A group of citrus trees, with logs cut for mushroom inoculation and some old chicken wire that is ready for a hugelkultur burial.
    A group of citrus trees, with logs cut for mushroom inoculation and some old chicken wire that is ready for a hugelkultur burial.

    So of course as an adult I moved onto property with a lot of lime trees on it.  Limes aren’t very profitable, either.  I keep the trees because I don’t water them yet they thrive, and I don’t believe in killing trees for no reason.  Now their canopy can be put to good use.

    We always find some lost treasure from the previous property owner.
    We always find some lost treasure from the previous property owner.

    I purchased organic mycelium from Paul Stamet’s Fungi Perfecti.  He wrote many books on growing mushrooms and has had startling results using oyster mushrooms for soil remediation and with turkey tail and other mushrooms for fighting cancer and other illnesses.  Mycelium Running is an incredible book.

    Clearing a level area under a lime tree.
    Clearing a level area under a lime tree.

    For the Garden Giant shrooms, we hacked through dead branches and pulled away a lot of red apple iceplant that has slowly been taking over from the neighbor’s property.  We dug about two inches into the ground to help insulate the wood chips that would be placed in there, and watered it in well with what was left of the rain water from our large tank.

    Mycelium is already busy around the roots of the lime and ash trees, even in this dry ground.
    Mycelium is already busy around the roots of the lime and ash trees, even in this dry ground.

    We’d just received a truckload of chipped oak from landscapers, and that was perfect for this variety of mushroom.  We spread out a couple of inches of chips, watered it well, spread the inoculated wood chips on top,

    Spreading the mycelium... so many little spores!
    Spreading the mycelium… so many little spores!

    spread a couple more inches of chips over, mixed them up with our hands to spread the spores throughout the chips, and watered again.  With luck, they should be up in a couple of weeks.

    The final Garden Giant bed.
    The final Garden Giant bed.

    Next to another tree we dug a 3×3 area just an inch down.  Shaggy Mane lives in vegetative compost rather than the highly fungal wood chips, and can live in a variety of stuff.

    Vegetative compost mixed with straw and leaves for this long-term mushroom.
    Vegetative compost mixed with straw and leaves for this long-term mushroom.

    We removed the more composted stuff from our cold compost bin and mixed it with very poopy straw from the chicken coop (thanks, girls!), and ash leaves.  The spores were mixed well into this combination and watered in.

    Mixing in Shaggy Mane  spores with the compost.
    Mixing in Shaggy Mane spores with the compost.

    I topped it with leaves just to help keep the moisture in.  We won’t see production from these until next winter when the temperature drops to below 60 degrees F.  When they do ‘fruit’, as the mushrooms are called, we can add new compost alongside and the spores will creep over for another year’s growth.Planting spores 014

    To assist with the moisture I’m going to have the greywater empty along these trees to keep the ground moist and the humidity up.  Also, there are drip lines from the well along here and I think the addition of some above-ground sprayers will handle our watering needs without using domestic water.

    The white tables are set under an orange tree, and are where inoculated logs will go.
    The white tables are set under an orange tree, and are where inoculated logs will go.

    Under the orange tree, which is a fine tree but very neglected and hidden by the vicious lime trees, we decided to set up for our next installment of mushroom growing.  We’ll be drilling holes in oak logs and growing four kinds of shrooms on them.  I’m sure you just can’t wait!

  • Compost,  Fungus and Mushrooms,  Gardening adventures,  Hugelkultur,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Rain Catching,  Seeds,  Soil,  Vegetables,  Water Saving,  Worms

    Planting Spores in the Garden

    The mycelium is white in the sawdust and ready to go.
    The mycelium is white in the sawdust and ready to go.

    If you remember the trenching, filling and designing the new veggie patch, then this post will make more sense to you. IMG_4786

    The next step was to cardboard the pathways where Bermuda grass has been taking over, then mulch them as well.  The mulch makes it all look so nice!

    Covered with mulch, the cardboard is only a memory.
    Covered with mulch, the cardboard is only a memory.

    Next it was time to plant.  We’d already  transplanted three-year old asparagus, and hopefully not shocked them so much that they won’t produce well this year.  The flavor of fresh asparagus defies description.

    Asparagus popping up some feather shoots from its new home.
    Asparagus popping up some feather shoots from its new home.

    The strawberry bed was older and completely taken over by Bermuda grass, so it all was buried and I purchased new organic and extremely reasonably priced bareroot strawberries.

    A bundle of twenty-five strawberries.
    A bundle of twenty-five strawberries.

    I purchased two June-bearing types and three ever-bearing,  heat-loving types, from www.groworganic.com.  When they bloom this year we’ll have to nip off the buds so that next year when their roots have taken hold and fed the crown, we can have lots of strawberries.

    Soaking the  strawberry roots for a few minutes rehydrates  them.
    Soaking the strawberry roots for a few minutes rehydrates them.

    We planted some in the asparagus bed, which will do nicely as groundcover and moisture retention around the asparagus, while the asparagus keeps the heat off the strawberries.  Some we planted around the rock in the center of the garden.  The rest will be planted around fruit trees as part of their guilds.

    Strawberries surround the rock.
    Strawberries surround the rock.

     

    We also planted rhubarb in the asparagus bed; these poor plants had been raised in the greenhouse for several months awaiting transplanting.

    Rhubarb, really eager to be put in the ground.
    Rhubarb, really eager to be put in the ground.

    Hopefully the asparagus will protect them from the heat. I plan to raise more rhubarb from seed and plant them in other locations on the property, aiming for the coolest spots as they don’t like heat at all.

    With a strong knife  (weak blades may snap) cut a cross in wet cardboard the pull aside the edges.
    With a strong knife (weak blades may snap) cut a cross in wet cardboard the pull aside the edges.

    The way to plant through cardboard is to make sure that it is wet, and using a strong knife make an x through the cardboard.  Use your fingers to pull the sides apart.  Stick your trowel down and pull up a good shovel full of dirt (depending on how deeply your plant needs to go.

    Insert a trowel through the hole and scoop out some dirt.
    Insert a trowel through the hole and scoop out some dirt.

    The base of plants and the crowns of strawberries should all be at soil level.  Seeds usually go down  three times their size; very small seeds may need light to germinate). Gently plant your plant with a handful of good compost, then water it in.  You won’t have to water very often because of the mulch, so check the soil first before watering so that you don’t overwater.

    Don't forget to water in the plants!
    Don’t forget to water in the plants!

    For the first time in years I ordered from the same source Jerusalem artichokes, or Sunchokes as they’ve been marketed.  They are like sunflowers with roots that taste faintly like artichoke.   We planted some of them in one of the quadrants, and the rest will be planted out in the gardens, where the digging of roots won’t disturb surrounding plants.

    The oyster mushroom kit, or H.U.G.  You'll have to visit Fungi Perfecti to read up on it.
    The oyster mushroom kit, or H.U.G. You’ll have to visit Fungi Perfecti to read up on it.

    Most excitingly, we’ve purchased mushroom spores from Fungi Perfecti, which is Paul Stamet’s business, the man who wrote Mycelium Running and several other books about growing mushrooms for food and for health.  We bought inoculated plugs, but that will be another post.  Almost as exciting are the three bags of inoculated sawdust to spread in the garden!  They sell an oyster mushroom that helps digest straw and mulch, while boosting the growth of vegetables and improving the soil.  You also may be able to harvest mushrooms from it!  Talk about a wonderful soil solution, rather than dumping chemical fertilizers on the ground!

    We’d already covered our veggie beds with wet cardboard and straw.

    Really good soil from what is now a mulched pathway.
    Really good soil from what is now a mulched pathway.

    To give the mycelium a good foundation I dug up good soil from one of the field beds, which needed an access path through the middle.  By digging out the path I created new water-holding swales, especially when filled with mulch.

    We pulled aside the straw.
    We pulled aside the straw.

    In the veggie garden we raked back the straw and lightly topped the wet cardboard with soil.  On  top of that we sprinkled the inoculated sawdust.

    Good soil  over cardboard.
    Good soil over cardboard.

    On top of that we pulled back the straw and watered it in.

    Sprinkling spore-filled  sawdust over the soil.
    Sprinkling spore-filled sawdust over the soil.

    The fungus will activate on the wet soil, eat through the cardboard to the  layers of mushroom compost and pidgin poo underneath that and help make the heavy clay beneath richer faster.

    The fungi will immediately begin to colonize the  wet soil.
    The fungi will immediately begin to colonize the wet soil.

     

    We treated the two top most beds which have the worst soil, the sunchoke bed and the asparagus bed.  In four to six weeks we may see some flowering of the mushrooms, although the fungus will be working even as I sit here.  There are several reasons why I did this.  One, it is just totally cool.  Secondly, there is no way for me to purchase organic straw.  By growing oyster mushrooms in it, I’m hoping the natural remediation qualities of the oyster fungus will help cleanse the straw as it decomposes.  Oyster mushrooms don’t retain the toxins that they remove from soil and compost, so the mushrooms will still be edible. Fungus will assist rebuilding the soil and give the vegetables a big growing boost.  I know I’ve preached that vegetables like a more bacterial soil rather than fungal.  This is true, except that there are different types of fungus.  If you put wood  chips  in a vegetable bed, you’ll activate other decomposing fungus that will retard the growth of your tender veggies; the same wood chips around trees and woody plants will help them grow.  However these oyster mushrooms will benefit your veggies by quickly  decomposing compost and making the nutrients readily available to the vegetables.  Their hyphae will  help the veggie’s roots in their search for water and nutrients, too.

    Straw is over the top and watered.  We can continue to plant in the beds  as the fungus does its magic.
    Straw is over the top and watered. We can continue to plant in the beds as the fungus does its magic.

    The other two bags of inoculated spores are for shaggy mane and garden giant, which we’ll find homes for in compost under trees.  More on that as we progress.  It is  so nice to be planting, especially since these are perennial plants where the most work is being done now.  Now we just need some rain!

  • Compost,  Gardening adventures,  Hugelkultur,  Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures,  Rain Catching,  Soil,  Water Saving

    The Sunken Bed Project… Finis!

     

    Maybe they can see this from space?
    Maybe they can see this from space?

    To take up where we left off in this exciting saga, we had the hugelkultur trenches buried, the pattern outlined in gypsum, and a boulder moved.  On top of the beds I spread the cleanings of a pigeon coop, courtesy of our good friends and neighbors who raise and rescue  many pigeons.

    Pigeon poo and coop gleanings all over the garden beds.  Yum!
    Pigeon poo and coop gleanings all over the garden beds. Yum!

    The high nitrogen poo, feathers, and leftover pigeon peas and other food items will make a wonderful breakfast for microbes. On top of that I spread a  pickup truck bed full of mushroom compost.  Jacob was nice enough to clean out his truck and help me get a load.  The nearby mushroom farm  raises shiitake and button mushrooms  on  logs of compressed sawdust.  This is a high fungal compost, and slightly acidic.  Since we have a  high alkaline soil, this is okay.

    The garden beds covered with mushroom compost.
    The garden beds covered with mushroom compost.

    After the compost begins to make its final decomposition, the worms  thrive in it.  I managed to wheelbarrow down the entire load and spread it just before we had the first rain event of the year…less than 1/4″, but enough to give the garden a small  soaking.

    Cardboard is on all the garden beds.  How nice to clean up all that  cardboard and newspaper that we've been collecting!
    Cardboard is on all the garden beds. How nice to clean up all that cardboard and newspaper that we’ve been collecting!

    Today my daughter and I started in on the final treatment.  We covered all the beds with cardboard, and all the pathways with newspaper.  This thin layer will hold in moisture, and help retard the growth of the dreaded  Bermuda grass.

    Spreading damp newspaper on the pathways.
    Spreading damp newspaper on the pathways.

    I’m really hoping so, anyway.  Another small storm was blowing in for tonight, scattering our newspapers although we wet them down thoroughly.  We’re still using water from the 700-gallon tank that catches water from the house’s raingutters.  We’re trying to use some up so that fresh water can enter the tank with  this storm.

    Watering down the newspaper with rainwater from the tank to keep the wind from undoing all our work, and starting the decomposition process.
    Watering down the newspaper with rainwater from the tank to keep the wind from undoing all our work, and starting the decomposition process.

    Although we were both very tired and getting cold, we needed to cover the paper.  I hauled down about fifteen wheelbarrows full of mulch; this had been dumped in the driveway courtesy a landscaper with a chipper.  Miranda spread the mulch over all the pathways, which looked just great.

    Paths covered in mulch.
    Paths covered in mulch.

    We almost stopped there, but I was driven to finish this project today.  We pitchforked used straw from out of the Fowl Fortress, broke open some other bales, and mulched the garden beds heavily with the straw.  And…. we’re done!  Yipee!  The rain tonight will give it all a good soak, and soon we can  begin planting in our snazzy new garden beds.

    The beds covered in straw!  Hurray!
    The beds covered in straw! Hurray!

    I admit that I thought the beds would look more sunken, but with three 2′ deep x 30′ long trenches underneath there is a lot of underground moisture for the topsoil to absorb.  Also the beds are below the pathways, but with the height of the cardboard and straw they don’t look it.  With the garden on a slope we had to make some adjustments.

    The next exciting project that we’ve already begun working on is growing mushrooms!  Stay tuned.