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Valentine’s in the Garden
Another gorgeous day in the garden today. I gave a chard bouquet to my friend Lara who has been so kind as to teach me piano over the last two months (I’ve progressed from the ‘clink clink’ stage to the two-handed ‘clink-clink-CLINK’ stage. Lara deserves chard!). My best Valentine’s was receiving my box of organic seeds from Botanical Interests. Yep, ordered too many again. At least it won’t make me fat.
It was warm enough for shorts, and since my neighbors can’t see me, I indulged for awhile.
At the end of December I had planted two flats of seeds and stuck them in the greenhouse; one had winter veggies and the other native plants.
A couple of weeks ago I was telling my daughter in college that only one of each had come up so far. She pointed out that the two were curiously linked: bladderpod and leeks! It seems even my garden is a comedian. Today I transplanted the bladderpod into larger containers.
Bladderpod (Isomeris arborea) is a true California native living at home in the desert or at the coast and usually in the worst soils. It flowers most of the year even in drought conditions, providing nectar for pollinators and hummingbirds. The plant doesn’t smell so great, but it has wonderful balloon-like pods that rattle when dry. It is a fantastic addition to gardens.
In planting seeds in flats it always looks as if roots are shallow until you take the plant up and find a healthy and sometimes long root system. Don’t let the top growth make you think that the roots aren’t developed.
No more natives are showing their faces in the flat yet, but they have their own schedule and I’ll continue to watch the flat for signs. Just as animals (including humans) respond to circadian rhythms with the 24/hour sleep/wake cycle, plant growth is cued in not only by warmth, but by length of daylight hours. For plants it is called photoperiodicity. You can casually throw that into a conversation over the dinner table tonight and see if anyone notices. A plant’s response to daylight length is called photoperiodic. There is much more to this, and you can read up on it here. So to make a short story longer, I don’t manipulate the light in the greenhouse so I wait longer time than recommended for seeds to sprout just in case they really don’t want to get out of bed yet. I can empathize.
In the veggie flat celery and parsnips have decided to sprout so I’ll transplant them out in a week or two.
Elsewhere in the garden the nitrogen-fixers are working away.
Fava beans have sprouted from leftover seed from last year and they are already in bloom.
The weather is so beautiful that I want to plant the summer veggies… I’m yearning for tomatoes! I will be good and wait a few more weeks until all chance of frost is gone (hopefully the weather won’t be too crazy and frost in March!). Then, look out! Seeds everywhere! And yes, by popular demand I will write about trashcan potatoes.
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Make Your Own Soymilk
A friend of mine, Kevin, came over and showed me how easy it is to make my own soymilk. What fun! Making your own soymilk is very economical and can be custom-flavored and sweetened to your taste. If you use organic soybeans -which I highly recommend because soybeans are one of the most sprayed crops – you can rest assured that you are serving your family a healthy, non-toxic beverage.
After Kevin showed me his way, I did a lot of research on other ways to make it, and tried some variations. Basically you soak dried soybeans (not edamame!) overnight, blend them up with water, heat it until it boils, strain it and flavor it, not necessarily in that order. Kevin’s method was to strain it before heating. I’ve found I like the results better to strain it after its hot; there isn’t any grit and it strains more quickly. Do whatever works for you.
When you make soymilk, you are actually making two products: soymilk and the high fiber and protein stuff that is strained out which is called okara. There are many recipes for using okara on the Internet, and I’ve found many in the classic cookbook, the Book of Tofu by Shurtleff and Aoyagi. Okara is virtually tasteless. If you strain your soymilk before its heated the okara is ‘fresh’ and a bit gritty. I made it into vegetarian fish patties following this recipe with good results, although they were a little too salty for me.
If you cook your soymilk before straining, then the okara is also cooked and looks like hot farina. Okara is often mixed with grains and ‘meats’ as a nutritious additive and a food extender. It has little flavor on its own. I used some to thicken a pea soup that was too thin and it worked wonderfully. The soy industry has a lot of okara on their hands so it is usually fed to livestock. It can be frozen or dried, too. If you absolutely have too much okara then compost it, feed it to your worms or bury it around your plants.
Once you have the soymilk you can drink it plain, sweeten it with sugar, honey or whatever your choice is, flavor it with vanilla or something else, serve it cold or hot (which is the best!), or make tofu out of it.
Making tofu is also an easy process, which is just curdling the soymilk and straining out the solids; if you’ve ever made goat cheese then you can make tofu.
The ratio of soaked soybeans to water varies depending upon how thick you like your soymilk. Kevin showed me a 4:1 ration (water to beans) which made a thin soymilk, similar to 1% milk. I like the 3:1 ratio because the milk is creamier.
I found a good deal on Bob’s Red Mill organic soybeans on Amazon.com, the beans pricing out to .19 cents an ounce (four bags for about $19 total).
I couldn’t find them at my local Sprouts or health food store. One bag of Bob’s Red Mill organic soybeans weighs 1 lb 8 oz, which is about 4 cups of dried beans. The beans swell up by a third, so one package makes 12 cups of rehydrated soybeans. A cup of dried soybeans makes about two quarts of soymilk (and about two cups of okara), so a bag would make eight quarts. A huge savings, and I have the okara as well.
A few tips: you can easily soak a cup of beans overnight and make soymilk every few days, depending on your need and time.
Use a very tall pot because when you are heating the soymilk it will take forever and then just when you turn away it will come foaming up out of the pot like something possessed; a tall pot helps keep it under control. After you pour out your soymilk, wash or at least soak your pot. The soymilk residue dries hard and must be soaked again to get off. Use several layers of cheesecloth (which you can wash and reuse), or a piece of muslin to strain your soymilk.
Also the raw soymilk doesn’t smell very appetizing. It is very beany and grassy. Once it comes to a boil the smell will change into a very yummy tofuish scent.
There is also a great dissent on how long you heat the soymilk. Kevin’s recipe was to just bring it to a boil. Some recipes recommend twenty minutes of boiling. I find that five minutes heats the soymilk and cooks the okara sufficiently. Experiment.
Soymilk and OkaraAuthor: Diane Cynthia KennedyRecipe type: BeveragePrep time:Cook time:Total time:Serves: 8Fresh organic soymilk and okara- delightful and inexpensive. This recipe will make about 5½ cups of silky soymilk and about 2 cups of cooked okara.Ingredients- One cup dried soybeans, soaked overnight
- Nine cups water
- Flavoring (optional)
- Sweetener (optional)
Instructions- Drain the soaked soybeans (which will now be about 3 cups).
- Scoop a cup of soybeans and put in blender with three cups of water.
- Blend until smooth.
- Pour mixture into a tall pot.
- Repeat with the other two cups of beans.
- Heat mixture until it boils, stirring constantly. This can take some time, so I usually give it a stir now and then until it starts steaming a little, and then give it all my attention so that it doesn't foam up and overflow.
- Lower temperature, stir down the foam and simmer for five minutes.
- Line a sieve with several layers of cheesecloth or a piece of muslin (you are trying to catch fine particles) and place sieve over another tall pot or container.
- Carefully ladle soymilk into the lined sieve and allow to drain (you can wait until mixture is cooler before you do this if you'd like.) Use a spoon to move the okara out of the way as you ladle. If you double the recipe you may need to strain the okara and empty the cheesecloth before you finish straining all the milk.
- Allow the okara to drain and cool until you can handle it comfortably.
- Wrapping the cheesecloth around the okara, squeeze the bundle until all the soymilk drains out.
- Refrigerate the okara until ready to use.
- Use soymilk plain, or heat and add flavoring and/or sweetener to taste. I like honey and vanilla.
- Refrigerate cooled soymilk. The soymilk should keep for about a week refrigerated; the okara about four days.
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Frost on the Pathways
It doesn’t often frost here in Fallbrook, which is located about an hour from both the mountains and the Pacific in northern San Diego county. When it does, the fruit growers have to take drastic steps to keep their citrus, avocados and other tender plants from dying. The last frost happened after a long steady rain, just after a thick mulch was applied to all the trails here at Finch Frolic Gardens (thank you, Lori!). I awoke to a magical result: just the pathways had turned white with frost. Beautiful! (You can click on the photos to enlarge).
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Southern California Permaculture Convergence! Be there!
If you are interested in any aspect of permaculture, such as organic gardening, herbs, planting native plants, aquaponics, natural ponds, beekeeping, keeping chickens, and so much more, then you must come to the Southern California Permaculture Convergence. It happens on March 9th and 10th at the Sky Mountain Institute in Escondido. The keynote speaker will be Paul Wheaton, lecturer and permaculturalist extraordinaire of www.permies.com fame. Oh, and I’ll be one of the many speakers as well (cough cough). The Early Bird special of only $50 for both days ends at the end of January, and then the price will rise, so buy your tickets now!
Also, for a full-on demonstration of taking bare land and creating a permaculture garden, there will be a three-day intensive class taught by Paul Wheaton on site the three days prior to the Convergence.
You can read about the convergence here at the official website, which will give you the link perm.eventbrite.com where you may purchase tickets. Also visit the SD Permaculture Meetup page to see all the free workshops that happen monthly all over San Diego.
This convergence is such a deal, you really shouldn’t miss it! And such a bargain, too. One of the best things I find that come out of these convergences is the exchange of ideas and networking among the attendees, and all the practical information you can take home and use right away. One of the largest parts of permaculture is building community, which means sharing with and assisting others.
Really. Don’t miss this! Tell your friends!
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Gardening secrets: Epsom salt and sugar
Gardening shouldn’t be expensive. If you believe everything you read, especially those wonderful gardening catalogs and even advice from professional gardeners, a garden could be quite an investment. Talk about golden carrots! I have spent my fair share of money for gardening products in my time. Then this permaculture stuff got into my head and it makes me rethink everything. Permaculture proves that gardening shouldn’t be labor intensive, just labor-wise. Make things work for you and let plants get on with what they want to do. Makes some forehead-slapping sense to me.
Organic fertilizer is a plus for firing off poor soil, but it is expensive. There are two other very inexpensive household products that you can use to really charge your soil, promote growth, make fruit sweeter, reduce some weeds, release the bound-up vitamins and minerals in the soil, promote world peace… well, I’m getting a little carried away, but not by too much.
Epsom salt is named after Epsom, England, where the active ingredient Magnesium sulfate was originally created. Not found naturally, it must be processed, now most often from dolomite. Dolomite is mined in the United States and internationally. The sustainability of dolomite mining and the environmental impact of mining, processing and shipping Epsom salts may be something to consider, if you worry about the locality of products you purchase. I don’t know what impacts those are. Epsom salts can actually be made at home by chrystalizing magnesium sulfate, but I’m thinking that although I enjoy do-it-yourselfing, this is a little too much.
Epsom salt is inexpensive and readily available. It is recommended for tomatoes, peppers and roses, but I use it around citrus trees, in the veggie beds, and anywhere leaves are looking sickly. The Epsom salt bag recommends sprinkling 2 tablespoons around the base of each plant, so you can see a little goes a long way. It is also a wonderful bath salt which eases sore muscles and leaches impurities from your skin (often recommended as a diet aid because of this). (Also if you have a greywater system, your magnesium-enriched bathwater will flow out to nutrify your plants! Such a deal!) Some sites tell you never to take it internally; the bag and others recommend it for… let’s say… loosening things up inside. It is also used as a curdling agent in making tofu. There is a relationship between calcium and magnesium whether it be in the soil or in our bodies. Taking too much calcium without enough magnesium can lead to many health problems such as arthritis and hardening of the arteries. Don’t take more than a ratio of 2:1. (Dairy products don’t have that ratio, so if you drink milk you may not be absorbing the amount of calcium you thought you were). Also, calcium and potassium compete with magnesium for uptake into roots, and even though your soil samples may indicate enough magnesium your plants may not be receiving enough. If you have heavy clay soil, you could have a ratio as high as 7:1, yet in sandy soil you need more magnesium to hold soil together so you can go to about 3:1. Here are some good sites for looking into the science behind it if you’re interested: National Gardening Association, a book excerpt here which goes into more details about how its made and how to use it medicinally, and even a site about how to make crafts with it.
Also, don’t let the name confuse you. Epsom salt is Magnesium sulfate, not salt as in table salt which is Sodium chloride. Applying Epsom salt to the ground is not like applying, well, salt. Applying Sodium chloride to your soil is to kill it. I’ve read and overheard inexperienced gardeners say that they’ve poured salt on weeds because, after all, it comes from the ground so it shouldn’t do any damage. Ummm, no. Invading armies would salt the fields of their enemies so they couldn’t grow crops there for decades. Heavy salt in the soil is a huge problem (which, of course, if you’ve been paying attention to past blogs you know can be readily solved by….. what? I’ll give you a chance to fill that in and reveal the answer at the end!)
As for my other ‘secret’ ingredient is sugar. Yes, my soil is on junk food. Actually using organic molasses dissolved in rainwater would be best, and I have done that when making a microbial brew, but I am but one person with a thin purse so sugar it is. Why sugar? It is a complex carbohydrate which plants need to produce protein, starch and fats. Plants produce their own sugar through photosynthesis, and by secreting their own sugars through their roots determine which microorganisms they want to thrive near them. I use a little sugar on ailing soil; all those millions of microbes and fungusey things that are in the soil get a jump-start with something sweet. Have you ever made bread and mixed a little sugar in with the yeast to proof it? Same difference. The soil critters feed off the sweet, multiplying like crazy and making your soil turn into healthy goodness. If your soil is healthy, you don’t need it. When the sweet is gone they munch on organic materials processing them more quickly and opening up all those locked nutrients in the soil. If there isn’t enough for them to eat and there is a die-off, then their little bodies become nutrients for the soil (as they would anyway). To put this into perspective, let me relay to you an interesting fact I learned in my Permaculture Design Course. When a field is plowed and farmed, the first year crops are good. Each successive year that it is plowed and farmed the fertility is less and the crops worse until the ground is barren. That is because with the first plowing or tilling gajillions of microbes are slaughtered and it is their dead bodies that fertilize the crops. Each successive year there are fewer microbes available to slaughter until they are all gone and the soil has become dirt. And then we have dust bowls and run-off, erosion, loss of the water table, the drying up of streams, climate change, universal discord… well, you get the picture.
Only lightly sprinkle the sugar around your soil; too much can hurt plants. I have used sugar successfully to kill off an invasion of nutgrass, something about which I read on the Internet. This sedge turned up in my pathways and although I hand weeded the little guys (I didn’t eat them although they were cultivated as a crop in Egypt) they just kept on coming, even after I had put plywood over the top for awhile. So I sugared them then threw the plywood back on, and Bob’s your Uncle, no more nutgrass in that area. I envisioned millions of little mouths biting away at the nutgrass bulbs underground… I need to stop thinking about that. What really happened is that the microbes fed off the sugar and multiplied wildly to a point where they locked up the available nutrients in the soil which non-natives need to grow. Native plants won’t be bothered because they can thrive in poor soil. Here is an article about the research behind sugaring to prevent weeds. I lightly add sugar around established plants that aren’t doing well, and water into new vegetable beds where the soil isn’t vigorous yet and allow the beds to sit awhile before I plant seeds.
Refined white sugar is of course empty calories. Any dissolved sweet will work well, too. Beet sugar, agave syrup, leftover pancake syrup, sorghum syrup, honey, molasses, diluted jelly… use your imagination and your pantry. The more nutrients in the sweet the better for your soil, but also the more expensive it will be. If you are using sweet for houseplants then you should be wary of possible interest by house ants. Outside it isn’t a problem.
So share your bath and your jelly donut with your garden and you’ll both be happier and healthier!
(Answer: compost! You knew that!)
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Delicious and Fun Thai Custard-inna-Pumpkin
I know that you lose sleep over trying to figure out how to get more vegetables into your dessert. Well, snuggle up for a good long snooze, because here’s a recipe to bring you peace! I found this recipe in the Heirloom Gardener Winter 2012- 2013 edition. The magazine is created by the people who bring you Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (organic). A wonderful article about Thai cooking by Wendy Kiang-Spray features this intriguing recipe, and I had to try it. You hollow out a small Thai or Kabocha squash (they are drier in texture), fill it with a coconut milk custard, steam it, and Bob’s your uncle!
I just happened to have a 2.5 lb homegrown Kabocha squash handy, so I made the recipe (adding a little cinnamon). Not wanting to be scared alone, I brought the whole cooled squash over to my friend Lara’s house, who helping me fulfill last year’s New Years resolution by teaching me basic piano. Being a vegetarian and a loyal friend, she was game to try it. It came out very good. I was impressed. I will do this again!
Troubleshooting: whisk the ingredients together. I thought I’d be fancy and put them into my VitaMix on the lowest setting, but even that added a little too much air to the custard mixture.
The top of the custard that I could see was yellowish, and I figured that this was due to the dark yolk in the eggs from my chickens, but I don’t know. Once cut into, though, the custard as a lovely white.
I turned my steamer on high until it was boiling, then turned the temperature down low and the custard wasn’t done in the allotted time. Next time I’ll keep it at a higher boil so that the steam is hotter. I cooked it much longer (I think too long because I was doing other things) and the squash split a little as it was very soft. I kept it in the steamer with something between the soft side and the inside of the steamer so that the squash would keep its shape as it cooled. After it was room temperature, I put it in the refrigerator for a short time and it the squash didn’t fall apart when I removed it.
Ms. Kiang-Spray states in her article that this recipe is known in Thailand as Sankaya and is a classic dessert. With all the eggs and tasty squash, I’d call this breakfast or lunch, too!
Thai Custard-inna-PumpkinAuthor: Diane C. Kennedy (adapted from recipe by Wendy Kiang-Spray)Recipe type: DessertCuisine: ThaiPrep time:Cook time:Total time:Serves: 6A simple, fun, lovely dessert that people will remember as they get their beta carotene.Ingredients- 1 2 -3 pound dry-fleshed squash such as Kabocha or Thai pumpkin.
- ¾ cup coconut milk
- 5 eggs (preferably at room temperature)
- ⅓ cup sugar
- Pinch of salt
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Instructions- Bring two quarts of water to a boil in the bottom half of a steamer pot.
- Use a cup to trace a circle around the top of the pumpkin.
- Cut the lid off around the guideline.
- Hollow out the inside with a spoon, making sure to get all the fibers.
- In a bowl gently whisk until combined the rest of the ingredients.
- Place the squash into the steamer basket.
- Pour custard through a sieve into the pumpkin leaving an inch to the top (filling will rise).
- Include the squash lid next to, but not on top of, the squash.
- Steam covered and undisturbed for 55 minutes until a knife inserted into the custard comes out clean.
- Remove steamer basket from over heat and allow squash to come to room temperature.
- Slice into wedges (in front of admiring company!) and serve.
- Serve at room temperature or chilled.
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Lazy Composting
I have a Rubbermaid compost bin where I dump my kitchen scraps, and a nifty three-bin pallet compost bin for larger stuff, as well as wire cages where I’ve heaped tough weeds and vines.
All of these methods of composting are great. They also require some physical work that I’m wary of these days. I still keep my old raised veggie beds lined with chicken wire and use them for controlled or experimental crops and extra seed. The soil in them settles after awhile and because I don’t turn my compost heaps enough I don’t produce enough compost to haul over and refill the beds.
Today I decided to try mini hugelkultur beds. Hugelkultur is the practice of heaping wood and other organic matter, covering it with soil and planting directly on the pile. The berm catches water and the buried wood holds the moisture, releasing it slowly to the plants and gradually decomposing to create beautiful soil. When I planted my strawberry bed two years ago I buried old lime tree logs all along the edge. Now that soil is beautiful as the logs decompose, helping to acidify the soil for the acid-loving strawberries, and holding moisture by the roots. Some strawberry plants have rooted right in the logs.
In one of my long raised veggie beds I cleaned out the frosted tomato vines and what sweet potato vines were left after our harvest.
I don’t like to disturb the soil because that kills microbes, fungus and worms, but this soil hadn’t been perfect to begin with.
I shoveled out a portion of the soil then cut up the tomato vines and dropped them in the bed.
Then I shovelled the dirt back over again, and made my way down the bed until all the vines had been covered.
I also sprinkled on sugar and epsom salts, to feed the microbes and add magnesium (I’ll blog about these two garden wonders another time).
Burying garden leftovers like this does several things. It quickly feeds the microbes and worms in the soil without the critters having to gnaw on them from underneath or wait until the plants decompose more. The vines keep the soil from compacting and help hold moisture when it rains.
The vines had taken nutrients up into the leaves and fruit, and now many of those same nutrients are being returned to the bed in which they grew. Keeping the soil moist from underneath is a valuable way to protect seedlings from bugs. Top mulch I have found to be a nursery for damaging pill bugs, which you might call ‘rolly-pollies’ or sow bugs.
Although experts say that sow bugs don’t directly damage plants and fruit but rather feed off of already damaged produce, I have my doubts. If so, I believe that mine hired another bug or bird to damage about half of my strawberry crop last year so that they could feast on them.
Because decomposing green matter will initially take nitrogen from the soil, I’ll let this bed sit for a couple of months before planting, or if I can’t stand to wait I’ll plant nitrogen-fixing peas as a cover crop. I won’t repeat the same crops in this bed because it is smart to rotate families of veggies for many reasons, including pest control. Whatever I put in here, however, will be a mix of seeds.
Another bed I’ve been playing with had been empty and needed soil. Over the last season I’ve thrown in garden debris and a layer of llama poo topped with sweet potato vines. Last week I balanced a piece of plywood over it. Today I took a peek and the vines are covered with bugs decomposing in the moist darkness of the plywood as the heap gradually settles. I’ll leave it be and keep checking on its progress.
I have more lazy composting ideas for the entire property. I’ll let you know.
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Stinging Nettle and World Peace
One of my very good friends asked me what to do about a proliferation of stinging nettle in her yard. There is a creek running through the bottom of her property, and while once there had been Jimson weed and other natives growing there, now there is just nettle which is spreading to her lawn. Her hand hurt for a day from inadvertently pulling some out bare-handed. Her neighbor had told her that “nettle was bad” and would take over. She was laying cardboard on some of it, but was afraid that wouldn’t be enough.
One of the main practices of permaculture is to take what is considered to be a problem and look at all sides of it, just as in Zen you must think like your enemy, or in some Native American beliefs you must walk a mile in another’s shoes.
Fortunately I knew some things about nettle, and told her that nettle was not only edible once the acid had been blanched away, but highly nutritious. Here is a good description of what it can do. It is a superb compost enervator. The disappearance of the other natives by the streambed was evidence that someone upstream had sprayed an herbicide that washed downstream and killed everything. The prolific growth of stinging nettle, which is an indicator plant for high nitrogen in the soil, showed that someone’s high nitrogen lawn fertilizer came the same way.
Nettle’s acid is simply an excretion by the plant on the hairs along its stem to discourage browsing animals. The sting is immediate and temporary, unlike poison oak which has an irritating oil that can spread with touch and takes a few days to cause a rash. In nature often the cure grows near the problem, and therefore both the riparian plants mint and plantain can be rubbed onto the area to alliviate the sting, but soap and hot water works just as well. Nettle reproduces only by seed, not by rhizomes or other invasive tactics. It likes water therefore it takes root in lawns which are watered frequently and are fertilized with nitrogen.
My friend is always ready to embrace new information, especially where nutrition is concerned, and immediately stopped looking at nettle as a potentially dangerous invader of her property, to an indicator of other problems (stream pollution) and a health goldmine. To control what she doesn’t use she knows she can cut it down before it seeds and it won’t spread (and the cut plants will charge her soil), and if she wanted to restore the wetlands area she could continue to lay cardboard to cover most of the nettle, then top them with soil and straw, cut holes through to the dirt and transplant native riparian plants into the sheet mulch. There are no invaders, no monsters in her yard.
While pulling ragweed out of the pathways at my place with another friend (I have become so rich in friends this last year!), I told her about the nettle. Her reply was that while she worked in the garden she’d see things in a new perspective. Knees to the earth, eyes choosing between ragweed and sprouting wildflowers, lungs full of the scent of good soil, permaculturalists steer away from the stereotypcial gardening approach and see benefits where others see problems.
And this is what this post is all about: applying permaculture practices to everyday living, from personal to global thinking. In permaculture there are no invasives, no bad guys. Even my hated Bermuda grass is a plant in the wrong place, spread because people insist on seeding lawns with the stuff. Its function is to hold soil and moisture and break up hardpack. It does this admirably well, only I don’t want it in my garden. In permaculture, problems are like little moons where you see nothing but black on the dark side until you turn it to see the incredible sunlit topography on the other side, and understand that all those details are there on the dark side as well. A problem is just an opportunity for creative thinking; a resource whose purpose isn’t clear as yet. Therefore there are no ‘weeds’, no stereotypes.
So take these phrases and look at them with the eyes of permaculture: Teens are irresponsible. Old people are antiquated. Dark-skinned people are dangerous. Light-skinned people are dangerous. The government is out to get us. All businesses are bad. All politicians are corrupt. Men are incompetent. Women are hysterical.
Imagine these phrases as balls you can turn in your hand, like little moons. Examine, understand, see that anger and violence all stems from fear. Look at all sides of the phrases and see that they cannot be true. Just as stinging nettle isn’t an invasive plant out to get people, but a plant rich in potentials doing its job, then any potential imagined threat to our safety can be understood and appreciated until we no longer face it with fear. We hire and train youths. We listen to the life experience of the old. We vote to change the government. We support small businesses. We offer training and workshops to teach. We offer safe, sane gardens in which to meditate. We produce good organic food to nourish brains and bodies and activate good health.
By gardening with permaculture in mind we can so easily imagine a more peaceful world, both for our small personal worlds and on a global scale. Therefore it is imperative that we introduce others to permaculture, for the saving of the earth and of ourselves.
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Awesome Candy Alert: Cayenne and Cashew Brittle
I’m not big into candy; give me cake, pie or bread, or a good rice pudding instead. However I’ve made this brittle at Christmas for years now, and it is always a big hit. The cayenne makes a nice mild burn to counter the sweetness of the brittle. Cayenne is good for you, too, as are cashews (no matter how creepy it is that cashews grow!), so it makes sense in some distorted way that this candy is good for you. It is so easy, too. I have much less salt tolerance than the general American public. If I eat out I find myself desperately thirsty for days. The original recipe was made for high salt intake, but I have shown options on cutting it back. You don’t need it, for the delight of the candy is in the burn with the sweet. I also don’t like very hot (spicy) foods, but I like this. Make some and try to share.
Cayenne and Cashew BrittleAuthor: Diane C. KennedyRecipe type: DessertCuisine: AmericanPrep time:Cook time:Total time:A yummy easy-to- make brittle with a slow spicy burn.Ingredients- 2 cups unsalted roasted cashews, whole or pieces (you can use salted, but I don't)
- 10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) butter (if using salted cashews, use unsalted butter)
- ½ cup sugar
- ¼ cup packed light brown sugar
- 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
- 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- ¼ teaspoon salt (optional)
Instructions- Butter a nonstick baking sheet and set aside.
- Combine all the ingredients in a large nonstick skillet.
- Stir mixture over low heat until the butter melts and the sugars dissolve.
- Increase heat to medium and boil.
- Stir constantly until mixture turns golden brown, thickens and masses together, about 5 minutes (if you cook it longer it won't be as shiny; too little and it will be soft but still yummy).
- Immediately pour candy out onto the prepared baking sheet and quickly spread evenly using a spatula to help.
- Cool completely.
- Break into pieces.
- Makes about 1⅓ pounds
- Cob, Gardening adventures, Permaculture and Edible Forest Gardening Adventures, Soil, Vegan, Vegetables, Vegetarian
Harvesting Sweet Potatoes with Gratitude
I am in sensory heaven. Outside frost is again settling – a rarity here in Fallbrook, CA. Inside…. mmmm. My daughter is juicing today’s harvest of oranges. On the stove I’m poaching the last of the Harry and David pears my son sent before Christmas, in a bath of Julian apple cider (I’ve had frozen since October!), cinnamon and vanilla. There is a touch of woodsmoke from the wood burning stove. The mingled aroma of vanilla, orange and cinnamon in the air is incredible. In the fire are two homegrown potatoes in foil baking for dinner, and I’m cutting squares of homemade bread (it rained the other day… great baking and soup day!) to toast in the fire on fondue forks with mozzarella cheese and drizzled with Just Dip It (an olive oil, vinegar and herb blend from Temecula Olive Oil Co.). I am saturated with contentment and gratitude.
I wanted to write a blogpost for the first day of the year about gratitude. Instead I’m writing about harvesting yams and sweet potatoes, which, I believe, amounts to the same thing.
Today the air was clean and almost 60 degrees F. Maxfield Parrish clouds filled the sky making it hard to pay attention to anything else. My daughter and I finally fired up Harry Mud, the cob oven. We experimented by baking small frozen pizzas, to success. Then in went homegrown, wrapped sweet potatoes, garlic and russet potatoes to slowly bake in the ashes. I hope I can convey sweetness of sitting outdoors on New Year’s Day eating pizza and smelling home grown potatoes and garlic cooking in a mud oven that we built, from mud from our property, as a snowy egret watched us carefully from the pond and our hens figured out how to beg. Peace. Enjoying the payoff of hard work. Eating health.
In the last few days we’ve dug up several patches of yams and sweet potatoes, the greenery of which had just been frosted black. I plant them all over the property to fill the groundcover niche of the plant guilds. I also grew some in my raised veggie beds. Some of the sweet potatoes had been small last year and so I left them in the ground. They grew.
The flavor of homegrown, organic potatoes is beyond description. You don’t need sugar and marshmallows dumped on the yams; potatoes aren’t just a vehicle for toppings. I steam them, eat them with butter, salt and pepper. Phenomenal. On Christmas I roasted wedges of yams with garlic and olive oil, and not only were they terrific, the leftovers I mixed into a hash for breakfast and it was sensational.
Yams and sweet potatoes are what Americans call the orange or white tubers, respectively, sold in the grocery stores. There are actually hundreds of varieties of sweet potatoes of many colors and flavors. They are semi-tropical and like warmth. To grow, buy an organic sweet potato or yam and allow it to sprout on your counter. This is the easiest way. You may also buy slips from organic growers. Please, please don’t buy non-organic seed, slips or bulbs. Please don’t be Round-up Ready.
Take a sharp knife and cut slices from your sprouted yam, each containing at least one sprouted ‘eye’ , and lay them out to air dry for a couple of days in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. This hardens them off. Don’t plant a whole potato because the plant will have all the food it needs to produce greenery and won’t feel the need to make as many tubers. Plant the slips in well-drained soil that isn’t heavily manured; as long as water doesn’t sit around the roots, they will probably grow. I’ve had luck in many kinds of soil. The plants will spread out in a lovely, glossy-leaved groundcover that protects the soil and reduces weeds. Let the vines run and enjoy the small yam flower. Harvest in late fall, or when the greenery dies off.
Carefully dig and lift the potatoes. The skin will be more delicate than on yams store-bought. Lay the dirt-caked potatoes out to dry off before you store them in a cool dark place. Keep small slips and roots for replanting. The flavor of homegrown organic potatoes will make you wonder what the tasteless mushy things you’ve been eating have been.
This last year had its share of terrible losses, worry, pain and disappointment, along with great joy and contentment if I opened my eyes to them. They say that you reap what you sow, and as the garden and my experience deepens, and as my life mellows, I feel the truth in it. This morning we had fresh juice made of passionfruit, guava, oranges and pomegranates, all of which we grew. The potatoes, garlic, squash, greens, pickles, passionfruit curd, strawberry jam, dried tomatoes, all are at hand because of planning, sowing, nurturing, harvesting and preserving or storing. This may seem incongruous, but I am astonished at how many friends I have gained this year, through my volunteer work and exercise classes, in addition to those gained while working with County Parks, Sullivan Middle School, and the SDZoo Safari Park. So many that I wrote out the names and counted and marveled. Perhaps the list would be small for others; I don’t know, but it is wondrous and enough for me. At age 51, I have more friends and good acquaintances than I’ve ever had in my life. I am so grateful. I not only reap what I sow, but just as in my garden harvest, I have more than I could have imagined.
I do not follow a religion. In Buddhism it is said that life is a walking meditation; that every step you take is a prayer. As I put one foot in front of the other walking through the last part of my life, as I dig yams and eat them redolent with the health of good soil, as I watch those Maxfield Parrish clouds, as I laugh and work with friends who miraculously smile when they see me, I wordlessly pray my gratitude to the universe.
I very truly wish for you a year filled with gratitude and peace, and health-giving food that nourishes your heart and soul as well as your body.